Changsha really is a great place, surrounded by mountains on three sides, with the only opening to the north facing Dongting Lake. This makes it easy for cold air to penetrate in winter and difficult for hot air to escape in summer. Combined with the inherent humidity of the south, the felt temperature is even more oppressive, freezing in winter and scorching in summer.

The recent heat has been unbearable, so I decided to cool off by playing in the mountain waters.

Destination

The place we’re heading to is called Qixian Temple in Luxi Village, located at the border between Changsha and Yueyang, under the jurisdiction of Yueyang, more than 80 kilometers from downtown Changsha, requiring a two-hour drive. It’s necessary to allow enough time for the trip, like an entire afternoon.

Having lived in Changsha for so long, I’ve pretty much visited all the places in the city, but I had never heard of these rural spots until my dad came across them on TikTok. Now that we had our destination, we picked a weekday afternoon, had lunch, and set off!

Driving from downtown Changsha to Qixian Temple, there are generally two routes: one involves a stretch on the Wushen Expressway, and the other takes purely national and rural roads. Since the distance isn’t too far and the expressway section isn’t long, using the expressway only saves about 20 minutes one way. It really depends on personal preference. I’m on summer break right now, so I have plenty of time and taking the national and rural roads is enough for me.

After nearly two hours on rural roads, where the speedometer mostly swung between 50 and 60 km/h, I find this is the charm of rural roads—compared to the flat and monotonous highways, the rural routes are winding and scenic. With one hand on the steering wheel and the other holding a drink just taken out of the fridge—the fridge being a later addition, a car-mounted fridge powered by the car’s cigarette lighter—it was easy and enjoyable. Sipping a cool drink while admiring the countryside and driving effortlessly is delightful. On the highway, when traffic is light, it’s okay but a bit dull; when it’s heavy, it requires full attention, leaving no room for relaxation.

Cold Water Well

As we moved deeper into the mountain area, just before reaching our destination, a temple came into view with a plaque reading “Cold Water Well.” This well is a legendary fairy spring, revered and popular. I had long heard of this well but didn’t expect to encounter it in such a secluded spot on our way to the wilderness. We immediately pulled over, took out the bucket prepared in the back of the car, knelt before the well to pay our respects, and began to draw water. There was a constant flow of people coming to pay respects and draw water, with a queue already forming at the well, but fortunately, the process was quick and there weren’t many people that day, so the wait was short.

Inside the temple, an LED screen alternated between displaying a merit list¹ and stories of the well’s “miraculous” effects, such as someone diagnosed with a certain type of cancer at a hospital, considered incurable, but who showed significant improvement and eventually recovered after drinking the well water. Whether these stories are true or false, and whether it’s really the miraculous effect of the well water or something else, is not for discussion here. This is a sacred well locally, and regardless of the truth, I follow local customs out of respect for the local people and their beliefs.

There is a fee to draw water from the well, which isn’t very high. Previously, the well water was open to the public and tools were provided for anyone to draw water, but now a fee is required. Even so, during peak times, the queue for buckets can stretch outside the temple, and waiting times can extend to five or six hours.

Qixian Temple

Proceeding a bit further and crossing some wilderness, we arrived at our destination, Qixian Temple. Here, there is a series of waterfalls, each with a pool below, filled with cool mountain spring water. However, care must be taken in choosing paths, as the slippery rocks can easily lead to falls. A special note here: if it weren’t for my dad slipping and falling into a pool, the consequences could have been unimaginable.

After a two-hour drive, we finally arrived, immediately changed into swimsuits, and went into the water to cool off. This natural spot is also crowded on weekends, with people bringing food and spending a day playing in the water and picnicking. However, the litter left behind by them really spoils the scenery.

Thankfully, the water, although not very clear, was genuinely refreshing. Entering the water was a bit nerve-wracking at first, but after a moment of hesitation and a chill, I finally got in. Then it was all about playing in the water, diving, swimming, washing hair—the heat vanished like smoke. An unexpected pleasure was the presence of many small fish. I didn’t realize these little creatures were there until I looked underwater. They scatter at the sight of people, and since I’m not a fish, I won’t speculate on the reasons for their behavior.

My phone supports IP68 water resistance, theoretically handling underwater photography without any issues. Normally, I adhere to the principle of “waterproof but not foolproof,” and don’t actually bring my phone into the water. This time, however, I made an exception and allowed it to capture underwater footage (because I want to change phones). So far, my phone is functioning normally.

We also met a couple there; when we arrived, they mentioned they had been soaking in the water for over two hours, so I helped them film a diving video.

It’s quite nice to meet fellow travelers.

The water temperature here is relatively low, around 23 degrees Celsius, which isn’t suitable for staying in the cold water for too long. After playing for a while, it’s important to replenish your energy.

Wrapping Up, Heading Home

After soaking in the water for two hours, it was a thoroughly refreshing experience. Once we were done soaking, we packed up and headed home. Thanks to the energy spent and the heat dissipated, I was ravenous when I got home and ate a lot.

My feeling over the past few years is that each summer has been hotter than the last. From this perspective, global warming truly does not deceive us. Even Europeans, who can no longer stand the heat, have started installing air conditioning. Such a severe issue should perhaps not be underestimated.

After a few days of the typhoon acting like an “air conditioner’s outdoor unit,” I hope the upcoming typhoon can bring some positive effects and come quickly to help us cool down.